By Debra Bokur

Western Massachusetts is a leafy harbor perfect for rejuvenation

Entering the Berkshire countryside around Lenox I realize I am surrounded by green. Lush and sparkling in the early morning light, this tiny town on the western border of Massachusetts is a lovely refuge known for Tanglewood, the chosen summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra; the Stockbridge Chamber Music Concerts; fine dining; museums; antiques; and an abundance of wellness destinations.

Driving slowly into the center of town, I pass a hillside of grazing sheep, fields of organic corn, and thick-branched sugar maples that will later be tapped to harvest their flow of sublime sap. This area was once a seasonal home to the Astors and Vanderbilts, who adored the brilliant fall colors of the Berkshire foliage. They often compared its beauty to that of their elegant summer mansions in Newport, Rhode Island, referring fondly to the Berkshires as an “inland Newport.” It flourished as such during the Gilded Age, until the end of the 1920s, when a combination of economic factors took their toll. Even today, positioned just over two hours from both Boston or New York, the tone here is so far from big city-ness, it’s nearly a universe of its own.

Cranwell Resort & Spa

My husband, James, and I are headed for the mansion on the hill, where Cranwell Resort & Spa sits against the blue, cloudless sky. Once known simply as Blossom Hill, this property was originally owned by the Reverend Henry Ward Beecher. The 380-acre-estate passed through several hands, and was eventually purchased in 1869 by furniture dealer John Sloane, who replaced the existing Wyndhurst mansion with a newer, larger version. These days, the cottages, gate house, and main building – with its sundry mix of Tudor, Baroque, and English architecture – are filled with plush guest rooms, an extensive spa, a full-service fitness center, a 60×30-foot heated indoor pool, and golf club.

Sunny, glassed-in walkways connect the spa to the main buildings, so even if the grounds are covered in snow deep enough for cross-country skiing, there’s no need to compromise body temperature getting from room to spa. I elect to experience the Thermal Clay Deluxe, which begins with a body polish called the Wildflower Grommage. After being exfoliated, I’m rinsed beneath a warm Vichy shower, then gently slathered with a thick layer of detoxifying sea clay, and snugly wrapped while the clay is administering its magic. I resist the urge to fall fast asleep as my therapist massages my face and scalp. Another rinse, then a full-body application of a hydrating body serum.

Wrapped in a soft robe and totally relaxed, I glide through the glass hallway back toward the main building, dreaming only of fresh seafood for dinner. James has located a highly recommended source, and we follow the road to the nearby town of Lee and the Salmon Run Fish House. The neon sign outside still bears the name of the previous occupants, but no one seems to mind. Sea salt on the tables, high-backed wooden booths, and fish-shaped serving platters lend a distinctly nautical theme, heightened by an aquarium full of sea life positioned so that you can watch them – or they can watch you – as you dine. The Salmon Run also serves a delicious maple and walnut encrusted chicken, and India Pale Ale, a slightly sweet, citrusy local concoction from the nearby Berkshire Brewing Company.

Canyon Ranch Resort

Legendary as a wellspring of holistic healing, Canyon Ranch occupies another souvenir from the Gilded Age – the elegant Bellefontaine estate, designed after the Petit Trianon in France. The property once served as a Jesuit seminary. Today the main mansion and complex of period buildings scattered across acres of rolling lawn seem sleepy in the afternoon sun, and very inviting. I wander across the vast grounds where a rather intense game of lawn croquet is in session. In winter, this landscape will be dotted with cross-country skiers and snowshoers.

I’m scheduled for a Healing Touch treatment at the Health & Healing Center located on the second and third floors of the mansion. My therapist, a registered nurse, eases my fully clothed body onto a massage table, and for the next eighty minutes uses a series of gentle touches and energy techniques to rebalance my energy and center my body, mind, and spirit. I’m left feeling both relaxed and energized, as if my personal cobwebs have all been swept away.

Like its sister property in Tucson, Canyon Ranch has a devoted following. Assistant hotel director Chris Bird explains to me that at Canyon Ranch, all treatments have a preventative focus. “Guests collaborate with the healing team to be part of their own health and wellness,” he says. “They discover ways they can make adjustments to their lifestyle that will lower health risks, making a conscious choice and commitment to take charge of their own health.” To that end, Canyon Ranch offers Taking it Home With You workshops, with exercise advice, a guide to healthy eating, and tips on continuing the quest for health once you’ve returned home. The resort’s demonstration kitchen also provides visitors with the opportunity to learn healthy cooking techniques directly from the cooking staff.

After my treatment, I enjoy a healthy, low-cal lunch prepared by Chef Barry Correia, a graduate of the prestigious Johnson & Wales culinary school. The menu changes regularly to reflect fresh, seasonal produce. Today, it’s grilled melon and tomato coulis with a warm roasted barley hash, followed by a slice of orange pound cake with raspberry sauce that fills up my corners perfectly. For those traveling solo, there is optional seating in the company of other guests at the Captain’s Table.

During the busy summer cultural season, guests enjoy complimentary shuttle transportation to and from a variety of town destinations, including Tanglewood, Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival, and Shakespeare & Company. Other activities on the ever-evolving menu include horseback riding, moonlight kayaking, Gyrotonics, squash, racquetball, Argentine tango classes, yoga, and an art program that combines hiking and painting.

The Healing Place

At the junction of West Street and Old Stockbridge road, just a short way from both Cranwell and Canyon Ranch, sits The Healing Place, a beautiful building that was once, quite appropriately, the home of a local doctor. Here, owners Jennifer Pyrzanowski, Jim Nowicki, and Ruth Saarony have fashioned a day spa that melds movement therapy, yoga, and meditation with energy healing treatments and an imaginative selection of massage, wraps, scrubs, and facials. “There’s a quiet, restful energy here,” says Nowicki, speaking of Lenox. He adds, “There’s a distinct vortex of healing energy in this place, within the shelter of the mountains of the Berkshires.” Trained as a movement therapist, Nowicki also teaches classes in the downstairs yoga room.

When he suggests I try the Raindrop Therapy, I succumb without the slightest argument. In specific order – and from a distance of about six inches – Nowicki applies drops of essential oils including thyme, oregano, peppermint, cypress, and birch to points along my spine, shoulders, and feet. With gentle, brushing fingertip strokes, he works the oils below the surface of my skin. The intention is to stimulate and encourage my nervous system to recalibrate itself. The therapeutic power of the oils lasts up to a week following the initial treatment, but I feel an immediate and positive shift in both my mood and general balance.

The Kripalu Center for Yoga & Health

The main building of The Kripalu Center for Yoga & Health is yet another extraordinary mansion, but it’s the grounds that most enchant me. An artful combination of meditation gardens, 300-plus acres of rocky trails, and abundant wildflowers lend an air of supreme tranquility. Built as a summer “cottage” during the Gilded Age by Anson Phelps Stokes, the property – known as Shadow Brook – was later called home by Andrew Carnegie. World-renowned for its yoga training, wellness programs, and retreats, Kripalu is also a short jaunt from both Cranwell and Canyon Ranch.

Operated by the non-profit educational organization Kripalu Yoga Fellowship, its programs are run by some of the most prominent yogis and healers in the world. One of the most popular programs is Retreat & Renewal, custom designed for each participant. Including three vegetarian meals per day, and embracing a holistic approach to life, the program’s choices range from yoga and Kripalu DansKinetics™ to sharing circles, sauna sessions, and a variety of workshops.

Translated from Sanskrit, Kripalu means compassion or grace – and these concepts apply to both teaching method and atmosphere. At the same time, you’ll find an almost tangible spirit of joy pervading every nook and cranny.

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