The daily activity choices are staggering, ranging from scientist-led lectures on global warming to art classes, dance lessons, yoga, films, discussions on literature, and performances by the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art. I opt for a matinee concert with Britain’s classical guitarist Robin Hill, famed throughout the world for his skill with the Spanish guitar.

Afterwards, James finds me, and we have time to catch a film in the Planetarium before heading to afternoon tea in the Queen’s Grill Lounge. The white-gloved wait staff floats through the room, silver trays aloft, offering us freshly baked scones, jam, and clotted cream, along with a selection of delicate sandwiches. Having more than one is tempting, but tonight’s dinner is taking place in Todd English, named for the renowned chef who supervises the kitchen and menus. Though the Canyon Ranch spa menu is offered here as well, I can’t resist the Lobster & Baby Corn Chowder, followed by Seared Yellow Fin Tuna with orange glaze, served with risotto. And, since Brandon doesn’t appear to be anywhere around, a glass of Riesling.

Sea Siren

The treatment choices on the spa menu are every bit as extensive as the ship’s activities. Chiropractic, acupuncture, teeth whitening, and a range of Ayurvedic treatments can be enjoyed, along with scrubs, facials, Thai massage, Shiatsu, wraps, and reflexology. After a long soak in the hydrotherapy pool, I decide that it seems only fitting – given my location – that I test a spa treatment with a sea component, so I select the Sea Foam Mud Therapy. My therapist covers me with a rich and pungent marine mud, explaining that the mud has powerful detoxifying properties. The mud self-heats, and as it does, it begins to bubble. The sensation is odd at first, but then quite pleasant. It takes a while to rinse off, but once I’m mud-free, my skin feels remarkably soft.

In the afternoon, I enjoy a lecture on the transatlantic crossings of my favorite poet, Dylan Thomas, while James goes for a massage. We rendezvous in the Veuve Clicquot Champagne bar as dusk settles over the water, relaxed, refreshed, and newly informed that once opened, a bottle of Champagne contains about 56 million bubbles. No one explains to us how they were counted.

Going with the Flow

Today, our last full day on board, we relax in the steam baths, saunas, and pool before taking a leisurely stroll through the ship’s interior and along the outside upper decks. Captain Christopher Rynd graciously treats us to a tour of the bridge, and I’m stunned by the views. As we stand in the narrow space overlooking the prow, a pod of whales appear, staying close by for the entire time we’re allowed to take up the crew’s space.

Before dinner, James and I catch another Planetarium show. Tonight, it’s definitely Canyon Ranch cuisine for me, and I find the Roast Turkey Medallions to be both delicious and satisfying. But the spa dinner menu leaves room for a healthy dessert, and I indulge in a small slice of thinly layered apple tart.

Land Ho!

Before the sun rises, we awake to the sound of the ship’s horns announcing our arrival in New York’s harbor. Stepping out on to the balcony, I watch as the Statue of Liberty slips into view, surrounded by our escort boats, all brightly lit in the pre-dawn light. On the decks below, passengers line the rails, some catching their very first sight of America. I’m strangely moved, and filled with the same awe I remember experiencing as a child, gazing up at the tall, torch-bearing lady for the first time.

For me, this ocean voyage of wellness has extended far beyond spa treatments and healthy foods. I realize that I haven’t been nervous for days, and that the hours spent in peaceful reverie watching as the great liner made her way majestically through the sea have helped me to understand, at least a little, the love of the ocean that defined so much of my father’s life. Today is June 10, the very same day he was officially declared lost at sea. My endless desire to see cosmic connections might be in overdrive, but I can’t help but feel he may have had a hand in my being on this ship, on this day, safely across the ocean, feeling peaceful and whole.

As we near the harbor, James reaches out along the rail and takes my hand. All voyages should end this way, I think – with some tidal shift in perspective achieved and the person you love most standing close beside you.

Addresses

For detailed information about Cunard’s elegant ships, voyages, worldwide routes, and destination ports, visit www.cunard.com

London Calling

Whether you choose the Queen Mary II’s New York to England or England to New York route, plan for a couple of nights in London. In the heart of the city, The Stafford Hotel offers a serene and elegant oasis opening onto St. James Park, with your choice of newly renovated luxury guest rooms in the Stafford Mews, or historic guest rooms in the Carriage House complex. Three hundred and fifty years ago, the Carriage House was the Blue Ball Tavern. Later, it served as stables, and the rooms are still named after horses. Both buildings open onto a quiet, cobbled yard that will conjure the illusion of gas-lit streets and shining carriages. Beneath the main hotel, part of a series of underground tunnels leading beneath the city have been converted into an extensive wine cellar, tasting room, and private dining room. The Stafford, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is located within easy walking distance of historic sites and attractions, as well as tube stations that will lead you wherever you’d like to go within the city. Set aside a leisurely afternoon to explore one of London’s many museums, including the Tate Modern on the south bank of the Thames, where permanent and traveling exhibits include film, art, and lectures. The Stafford Hotel, St. James Place, London, 020-7493-0111, www.thestaffordhotel.co.uk; www.visitlondon.com

November/December 2007

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