Hungry for something other than shellfish, we settle on Chimayo, a colorful cafe owned by a couple from New Mexico. Snapper tacos in hand, we select a picnic table in the sun and are soon joined by an islander who shares a bit of local lore. Like any community that lives or dies by tourism, Orcas residents have a delicate relationship with not only the visitors, but also the business owners, many of whom are outsiders unfamiliar with island life. Our conversation encompasses everything from water politics to the ‘two-year rule’ – the point at which newcomers either become life-long residents or return to the mainland – and we go on our way with a much fuller sense of the islands.
Tracing the shore to Moran State Park, we make the winding drive past Cascade, Mountain, and Summit Lakes to the top of Mt. Constitution. At 2,407 feet, the mountain offers views of the surrounding islands, Vancouver, B.C., and the Cascade and Olympic Mountains. From the observation tower, the world is all blues and greens. And though I take pictures madly, there is just no capturing the beauty.
Unable to absorb anymore, we descend and head towards Olga, home of an art studio that doubles as a café. The gallery is impressive, with myriad offerings from local artists and a loft featuring larger pieces. Tempted by the handmade journals and by more than one piece of jewelry, I manage to leave with just a few photos and a bite of the café’s blackberry pie.
Anxious to get out of the car for good, we make the trip over to Deer Harbor, where our cottage awaits. We ascend Jack and Jill Drive to the Inn’s lobby where we are given a key to one of the many cottages that dot the hillside. The resort’s recent renovation brought new owners and amenities to Deer Harbor, and it shows. The paint is fresh, the windows seal tight, and the key still sticks in the lock a bit. With a full-sized hot tub on the front porch, a fireplace dividing the sitting area from the sleeping room, a kitchenette, a king bed, and a couch, it seems too much for two people, especially for just one night.
After a much-anticipated shower and an exploration of the pier, we make our way back for dinner at the recently opened Starfish Grill. The room is quaint, more casual than intimate, and we sit near a window overlooking the harbor. A shellfish lover’s dream, the menu features oysters, clams, crab, and shrimp in and on almost everything.
Because of the restaurant’s newness, we expect the food to be a bit uneven, and it is. The appetizer, a southwestern spin on seared Ahi, is interesting, but not dazzling. The green salad is solid, but the seafood curry is a bit bland. The grilled escolar, however, proves to be the highlight of the night. Coated in a sun-dried tomato pesto, the firm white fish served with vegetables and garlic potatoes is flavorful and filling.
Ready to get back to the cottage for a little quiet time, we request dessert to go, stop at the convenience store for wine and return to the room. Wine in hand, we watch dusk descend on the harbor, then fire up the hot tub and slip into our swimsuits to enjoy the sunset. The porch is remarkably private, and as the sun disappears behind the hills, a lone sailboat catches the last ray and, just for an instant, glows like a star on the water.
Amazing. Breathtaking. Beautiful. And that’s only the beginning.
address book
Inn at Langley – Whidbey Island
Rooms start at $215; Relax Package, $150
(360) 221-3033; www.innatlangley.com
Friday Harbor House – San Juan Island
Harbor View Queen Room, $265 (Summer)
(360) 378-8455; www.fridayharborhouse.com
Resort at Deer Harbor – Orcas Island
Deluxe Cottage $259 (Summer)
(888) 376-4480; www.deerharbor.com
May/June 2003
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