By Paul Ross
It’s an island so private, it’s got an unlisted latitude. I’m just kidding, but it’s almost the truth when talking about Anguilla (An-GWIL-ah), a Caribbean destination that is a “British Overseas Territory.” Discovered some 4,000 years ago by the Amerindian Arawaks from neighboring South America’s Orinoco region, the peaceful island was wrongfully subject to periodic and devastating raids, first by various indigenous tribes then by successive waves of European invaders. The French and British subjected Anguilla to their conflict for nearly two hundred years. A forced political union with the island of St. Kitts was imposed by a colonial governor and a series of devastating droughts lead to a desperate plan to relocate the entire Anguillan population – including African slaves brought in to work plantations. In recent decades, Anguilla has overcome its history of poverty and natural catastrophe to transform itself into a true fantasy island.
Anguilla’s sales slogan “tranquility wrapped in blue” is fitting as it is blessed with some of the best beaches in the world. Although it is in the leeward island chain and within sight of trés French Saint Martin (Sint Maarten on its Dutch side), it has not followed its neighbor’s example of heavy development to accommodate cruise-ship tourism. Instead, the 11,500 inhabitants of this tiny coral island (stretching sixteen miles long and three miles wide) are committed to preserving the island’s culture, frequently choosing quality over quantity. It is currently host to three of the world’s top fifteen international resorts and boasts more than fifty dining establishments of uniformly good cuisine.
Although every Caribbean pleasure port makes the claim, the Anguillan natives really are friendly. For this, we can thank . . . poor soil. The European colonizers were practical men – once they discovered that the traditional cash crops (cotton and tobacco) did not grow well on the sparse island, slaves became nothing more than extra mouths to feed. Consequently, the heinous slave trade never took hold. The Anguillans have always possessed a degree of autonomy and self-determination (there are historical records of slaves commuting to work on other islands and returning to buy their freedom), owned much of their homeland, and maintained a positive attitude. Today, they are proud but not arrogant and pragmatic in their philosophical approach to well-to-do visitors. They appreciate the jobs and money generated by tourism. Anguillans are truly welcoming hosts, known among Caribbean travelers for their accepting attitude. Many natives live traditionally in simple, 2 – 3 room cinder-block houses and work at a resort, serving guests whose weekly vacation expenditures far exceed their annual income. This laid-back attitude and the safety and peace of the island are among the reasons that beautiful Anguilla has become a vacation destination for A-list stars and unindicted CEOs – for those where money is no object.
Fortunately, for the rest of us, there are more affordable choices available. Accommodations range from hostels to small motels to reasonably-priced villa rentals. And the fine, powdery sands that grace the most luxurious resorts are open to all; there are NO private beaches on Anguilla.
Cap Juluca is a trendy, top-end success story; it runs at near-capacity most of the year and is celeb-studded during the busy winter season. Rooms are priced from a daily rate of $325 during the summer off-season to a year-end high of $3645 for a five bedroom villa with its own private swimming pool.
Though named for the Arawak Indian Rainbow God, Cap Juluca is Moroccan in motif, featuring a trio of award-winning restaurants. It is the very definition of a tropical beach resort, with white sands, warm clear blue water, deluxe accommodations, and every amenity you could desire – except for a spa. At Cap Juluca, the treatments come to your room. Spacious quarters overlooking the sea beat the hell out of the windowless, incense-choking, claustrophobic boxes that house many urban massages. About twenty treatments are available, ranging from Indonesian-inspired Lulur to the signature Juluca Ritual for Two, which incorporates Swedish, Shiatsu, Integrative, and Reflexology methods all in one session. The ritual can be broken up into two parts, with a bathtub soak in bougainvillea flower petals in between. Cap Juluca also offers one-week wellness programs throughout the year that include spiritual astrology, yoga, intuitive healing, shamanic work, and movement therapies.
True to its name, the CuisinArt Resort & Spa is known for its food, which blends ingredients flown-in daily from France with fresh produce from its unique, on-site hydroponic greenhouse. Legendary Master Chef Paul Bocuse is the resort’s “International Cuisine Consultant,” however, in-house Executive Chef Denis Jericot also serves up low-fat meals which are very much in-line with spa health goals. He also offers instruction in how to prepare these nutritious specialties.
The Venus Spa is a stand-alone facility on the resort grounds. Among its more than two dozen treatments, is the Repéchage Four Layer Facial, an hour-long therapeutic indulgence that combines natural products and massage with the latest in skin science. The facial exfoliates, softens, detoxifies, moisturizes, rebalances, and tones through a progressive series of applications that culminate with a cool green seaweed mask followed by a warm, pink/brown mineral mask. Other specialties of the spa are the Caribbean Hot Sea Stone Massage, Anguillan Coconut Pineapple Scrub, and various baths featuring infusions of local minerals and plants from the hydroponic farm. During the off-season, small rooms can be booked for $295 a day, but holiday penthouse rates can reach up to $5250.
Melliouhana Hotel & Spa (Anguilla’s ancient indigenous appellation) is a fixture on Mead’s Bay, where sailboats, catamarans, windsurfers, and fishing boats are available. This everything-to-everyone resort offers vacation packages that can be romantic, gourmet, or for the entire family. (There’s a special kids’ pool featuring a wrecked pirate ship! And, for adults they offer a selection of prime vintages that caught the attention of Wine Spectator magazine.) Gardens surround most of the property. The property’s brand-new 15,000-square-foot spa features Sothys and Phytomer products in many of their treatments. Indulge in the Oasis Sea Balm Massage or the Raindrop Therapy treatment while taking advantage of the gorgeous tropical setting.
CoveCastles are distinctive-looking villas that provide a variety of plush personal services as well as Altamer, an outstanding kitchen with a commanding view of neighboring St. Martin. The grandest villa spans more than 5,000-square-feet in size and boasts its own freshwater pool. All accommodations are right on the beach, offering every amenity for enjoyment – sailboats and hammocks included.
Rendezvous Bay Hotel & Villas is owned and run by a family whose personal history is almost as long and as colorful as Anguilla’s itself. In addition to a magnificent stretch of coastline and a pristine beach, the property essentially houses its own bird sanctuary. From several gorgeous vantage points, one can dine on fresh seafood (try their lobster) and a bounteous variety of imported produce prepared with traditional island spices. Even outdoor breakfasts are a love triangle between you, the food, and a magnificent sea. The rooms have a timeless island quality that allow you to feel like a beachcomber of yore.
Frangipani Beach Club stands out for its spacious rooms (with full kitchen and in-suite laundry facilities) and its bold, yet comforting pink stucco exterior. In addition to its vantage point on Mead’s Bay, the Frangipani Beach Club has a fantastic pool, bar, wine-cellar, and restaurant with dining specialties such as smoked salmon with caviar and roasted snapper topped with crayfish baked in chervil butter.
The Temenos Complex is the highest of the high-end accommodations. More fully-appointed than most homes, this resort features three villas composed of four-bedroom suites, plus “maid’s quarters,” giant screen TVs, fireplaces, inside/outside master bathrooms, private pools, garages, state-of-the-art kitchens, and catalogued artwork. During peak vacation periods, the going card rate is $50,000 per week. Continental breakfasts are included, but hot breakfasts are extra. So be sure to inquire about special package rates when booking your Anguillan vacation getaway as deals are frequently available.
Anguilla is an island still being “discovered” – by well-informed travelers, the elite of the entertainment and business worlds, and those with a taste for a classic Caribbean paradise.
address book
Cap Juluca, Maunday’s Bay, (888) 8 JULUCA; www.capjuluca.com
Rendezvous Bay Hotel & Villas, Rendezvous Bay, (800) 274-4893; www.rendezvousbay.com
CoveCastles, Shoal Bay West, (800) 223-1108; www.covecastles.com
CuisinArt Resort & Spa, Rendezvous Bay, (800) 937-9956; www.cuisinartresort.com
Frangipani Beach Club, Meads Bay, (800) 829-4564; www.frangipani.ai
Malliouhana Hotel & Spa, Meads Bay, (800) 835-0796; www.malliouhana.com
Temenos, (264) 222-9000; www.temenosvillas.com
March/April 2004
- Earth Science - April 17, 2026
- Sweed Beauty - April 17, 2026
- Farmhouse Fresh - April 17, 2026