Leukerbad
The small ski village of Leukerbad boasts the highest Alpine thermal baths in Switzerland. A few hundred yards from the back door of the cozy Hotel Grichting & Badnerhof, I find access to the massive Lindner Alpentherme and its network of mineral and thermal pools, steam baths, and saunas. The spa uses Clarins products, and the menu features extensive Ayurvedic treatments and massage, along with Chinese and Indonesian therapies. Both the indoor and steamy outdoor pools have multiple water massage features positioned along the perimeter and within the central area.
A total of sixty-seven natural springs exist in and around Leukerbad. Nine of them are marked as part of the Thermal Spring Trek, allowing sightseers with a head for heights an opportunity to follow a two-hour walking circuit from one to another through Dala Gorge, much of the route involving narrow, suspended bridges and walkways attached to cliff faces.
I opt for a long thermal soak in the icy mountain air, and then some dinner. The Grichting has two restaurants, and I choose the upstairs room for its dƒ©cor: ornately carved wooden trim and shelves filled with painted porcelain plates and steins. The delicious pot roast, thinly sliced, is bathed in a rich golden raisin sauce, served with gnocchi and steamed vegetables “and accompanied by the restaurant’s rather eclectic blend of polka music interspersed with German hard rock.
Zermatt
To many skiers, Zermatt is synonymous with paradise. In the nearby town of Brig, I board a cog train that leads steeply upward through a collection of small villages until it reaches the end of the line. It’s here that Zermatt rests beneath the commanding gaze of the Matterhorn, wreathed dramatically today in mists and dark clouds.
Zermatt has snow 365 days a year, and the frosty air has me craving something hearty. I find my way through the crowded central street to a small restaurant with a thick stack of logs blazing cheerily in a stone fireplace. While savoring a bowl of pasta with roasted vegetables and cheese, I watch as the day’s ski crowd makes their way back from the slopes.
The Hotel Mirabeau is a short walk from the train station. I settle in and fall into a deep sleep, waking to a morning of clear skies.‚ After breakfast, I follow a tunnel leading underground from the hotel lobby to the Alpine Wellness Center. Therapies here focus on the holistic use of natural mountain products, including edelweiss, mountain herbs, and local honey. There’s a specific circuit to follow, beginning with a soapstone bath in a room heated by a stone oven. I lie naked on one of the scented spelt chaff mattresses, with a layer of hot stones spread beneath it, then move on to the traditional dry sauna, filled with the aroma of pine and larch.
Next is the Outdoor Atrium, open to the sky, where a vigorous “and quite cold “outdoor shower helps bring my body temperature back to normal. The next stop is the Flower Steam Bath, an aromatherapy steam room with flowers and herbs native to the surrounding slopes. After another cooling shower, I retire to the Relaxation Room, outfitted with waterbeds, soft blankets, and headphones that supply soothing music. There’s also a full range of facials and body treatments, featuring natural products made from Alpine botanicals including edelweiss, juniper, wild blueberries, carline thistle, and hay flowers.
The next day, as I prepare for the long journey home, the receptionist at the hotel desk jokingly asks me if I purchased a Swiss clock during my stay. Surprised, I tell her no, suddenly concerned that I should have done so. Sensing my distress, she laughs and shakes her head “then tells me that the Swiss believe it’s far more important how you spend your time, than how you keep track of the hours. I don’t bother to mention that while I skipped the clock shopping, I managed to find ample time for replenishing my supply of Swiss chocolate. Souvenirs, of course.
Address Book
Swiss Air Top service from many major U.S. cities and throughout Europe and the world. www.swiss.com
Swiss Travel System Your Swiss Pass entitles you to unlimited passage on buses, boats, trains, and trams. www.swisstravelsystem.com
Interlaken‚ Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa (Five Star) +41 033 828 28 28, www.victoria-jungfrau.ch
Weggis‚ Park Hotel Weggis (Five Star) +41 041 392 05 05, www.phw.ch
Bad Ragaz‚ Grad Hotel Quellenhof (Five Star) +41 081 303 30 30, www.resortragaz.ch
Leukerbad‚ Wellness Hotel Grichting & Badnerhof (Four Star) +41 027 472 77 11, www.hotel-grichting.ch, Thermal Spring Trek, www.thermal-guide.ch, Area information: www.leukerbad.ch
Zermatt Hotel Mirabeau Alpine Residence Wellness & Spa (Five Star)‚ +41 027 966 26 60, www.hotel-mirabeau.ch
Jan/Feb 2008
- Earth Science - April 17, 2026
- Sweed Beauty - April 17, 2026
- Farmhouse Fresh - April 17, 2026