Rich in omega-3 fatty acids, packed with lean protein, and a staple in cuisine from Japan to Mexico, fish has long been a dietary cornerstone. Harvested from the depths of the ocean or the currents of a river, seafood is often perceived as the healthiest of meats, and the most abundant. Yet as human demand increases, fisheries around the world are suffering, sometimes to the point of near extinction.
In addition, recent information about methylmercury and other toxins in certain species have raised concern, making a stop at the fish market or seafood counter more confusing and thought provoking than ever before. In a world where Chilean sea bass is available in Boston, Maine lobster is shipped to Mexico, and Atlantic salmon is farmed on the Pacific coast, what fish are healthy for both humans and the planet? What species are truly safe?
The truth is alarming. Between pollution, overfishing, global warming, and the destruction of fragile coastal ecosystems the once abundant oceans are increasingly empty. Coal burning power plants emit mercury, which finds its way into rivers, lakes, and streams through precipitation and runoff. Aided by bacteria in the water, mercury chemically transforms into methylmercury, which is absorbed by fish and other aquatic life. Larger fish, like tuna, swordfish, and shark live longer and thus have higher levels of methylmercury because they feed on other fish throughout their lives, while smaller, plant eating fish are lower in mercury due to their diet and size. Young children and pregnant or nursing women should avoid these larger fish altogether. Others should eat them only in moderation to avoid a toxic buildup of mercury in the body. But rather than cut out seafood entirely, the FDA and EPA recommend that fish-eaters choose a variety of fish with lower levels of mercury, since the nutritional benefits of seafood still outweigh the risks.
For seafood lovers who are concerned not only about eating chemically-free fish but also about the health and sustainability of the fish stocks and the ecosystems in which they are found, methylmercury is only the beginning. In his book, The Empty Ocean (Shearwater Books, 2003), Richard Ellis writes, “Out of desperation, greed, ignorance, and mismanagement people are finding the bottom of fish stocks that once seemed bottomless.” Today there are more than one million vessels fishing the Earth’s waters, and species which were once plentiful are increasingly hard to find. New England codfish, Atlantic salmon, Bluefin tuna, and California sardines are but a few of the fisheries which have all but collapsed. Indeed, the most desired species of table fish, flounder, cod, haddock, and tuna, have fallen to roughly 16% of what their numbers were in 1990. Salmon from the Pacific Northwest is suffering a similar plight. In fact, more than 100 local populations in the eastern Pacific have disappeared, and all Pacific salmon except those that breed in Alaska are considered endangered.
Overfishing or ‘harvesting at a rate above a prescribed fishing mortality threshold’ (as defined by the National Marine Fisheries Service), is not the only cause for the decline of the fisheries, but it plays a significant role. Other problems include the increasing demand (and thus, inflated prices) for seafood as well as the methods by which commercial fishermen catch the fish. In an effort to increase the yield, and no doubt in response to the dearth of fish in the oceans, fishermen are spending more time at sea, employing new technology, and resorting to methods that bring in more fish at a greater environmental cost. Boats are now scouring the formerly unchartered waters of the deep seas, exploring areas outside of any country’s Exclusive Economic Zone. Such boundaries are difficult to regulate and patrol. Trawlers are employing bigger, heavier nets that sink deeper and collect more. These nets often hit the ocean floor, destroying coral reefs and debilitating ecosystems. They also capture everything in their path, including juveniles, unwanted species and other sea life. This ‘bycatch,’ which is rendered lifeless in this process, is considered useless and is discarded back into the sea.
Perhaps the most well-known victims of bycatch are dolphins. Drift nets aimed at tuna and other big fish once ensnared these beloved creatures frequently. However, this practice created such an outcry the practice was banned in 1994. Unfortunately, the ban of drift nets did not solve the problem of bycatch. In The Empty Ocean, Ellis states that for every ten pounds of shrimp trapped in the Gulf of Mexico alone, 80-90 pounds of bycatch is produced. In other words, 80-90% of every shrimp harvest is considered ‘trash’ fish. Considering that more than 4 million tons of shrimp and prawns are captured each year, the amount of waste is astronomical. What other industry would accept such a low return on investment?
The implications of such waste are far reaching. The capture of juveniles prohibits them from reaching maturity and reproducing, endangers the survival of the species, and impacts harvestable numbers for years to come. Unwanted species, though perhaps unpalatable to humans, are significant to ocean food chains and ecosystems while ocean plants, plankton, coral, and other sea life are sources of nutrients and food to many species and are vital to maintaining healthy ocean habitats. As a result, an increasing number of consumer favorites are listed as overfished or subject to overfishing by the National Marine Fisheries Service. Red snapper, red grouper, black sea bass, Atlantic halibut, yellowtail flounder, and Atlantic big eye tuna are but a few of the stocks that are currently harvested at unsustainable levels.
The plight of wild stocks raises the question, what about farmed fish? Unfortunately, this industry has fallen far short of its potential to relieve the burden of wild species. Like most other farmed meat, fish farming, or aquaculture, is infamous for use of antibiotics and hormones, crowded conditions, and waste and pollution problems. In addition, according to a study published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, the artificial, crowded, and confining environment actually decreases the nutritional value of the fish. These problems are compounded by the fact that the majority of farmed fish are fish-eaters, and thus, ocean fish must be caught to produce their feed. Aquaculture has an environmental impact as well. Farms often decimate the ecosystems in which they are found, contaminating waters with both waste and uneaten food, as well as with the chemicals or additives farmers use to boost size, enhance color, or prevent disease. In addition, farmed fish caged in natural bodies of water can escape into the wild, taking their genetic modifications, chemical enhancements, and disease with them. These fish intermingle with the wild of their species, and the offspring is neither wild nor farmed. And because farms can be located anywhere, ecological upheaval may ensue. For example, Atlantic salmon have recently been found in the Pacific Ocean.
To health and environmentally conscious seafood eaters, this news is devastating. But there is hope. Fortunately, there are a handful of commercial fishing methods and farming practices that are more ecologically sensitive. Troll or pole-caught fish are more sustainably harvested than trawl-caught fish, since this practice eliminates bycatch and destruction of the sea floor. Longline-caught fish are an improvement over trawling, but often ensnare Albatross, so this method is not entirely safe. As for aquaculture, ecologically sensitive companies are emerging on the scene due to customer demand and industry concern. One example is Ocean Boy Farms, producer of Florida Sweet Shrimp. They have earned the USDA certified organic seal for their environmental sensitivity as well as their antibiotic, hormone, preservative, and chemical-free shrimp. Located inland, their farms avoid potential cross-contamination with the ocean, and preserve mangrove forests, which are often destroyed for aquaculture.
In addition, supermarkets like Whole Foods and Wild Oats are doing their part to educate consumers on the risks of traditionally farmed fish and methylmercury, and on the benefits of sustainable seafood. Many restaurants and chefs are also increasingly savvy about seafood concerns; some will even refuse to serve endangered or overfished species. But truly, the power lies in the hands of the consumer. The more we demand safe farming and fishing practices and refuse to support those that are not, the more abundant and healthy our seafood choices will be for ourselves and future generations. d
What about fish oil?
Since it is derived from ocean fish, it is wise to be informed about where your fish oil supplements come from.Often, just perusing the label is not enough. While most brands are routinely tested for toxicity, environmentally conscious consumers may want to consult company websites and brochures for further information regarding the source of their supplements. Look for wild salmon fish oil, or check out Nordic Naturals’ line “the company third party tests their products for purity and is committed to harvesting only sustainable species, like Arctic (as opposed to Atlantic) Cod. Whatever you choose, Elizabeth Somer, R.D., recommends, “Look for a supplement that supplies at least one gram of omega-3’s, especially EPA and DHA. It may take two capsules.” Non-fish eaters can look for vegetarian EFA blends that provide omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. The array of vegetarian blends is extensive. companies like Barleans Organic Oils produce a variety of EFA-rich oils like sesame, sunflower, borage, and evening primrose in addition to flax to create nutritious blends that are often organic and thus, both healthy and environmentally safe.
A few companies that offer fish and other omega-rich oils: Barleans Organic Oils, barleans.com; Health from the Sun, healthfromthesun.com
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