By Hilary Davidson
Toronto is in the middle of a metamorphosis. Many of its art institutions are currently being reinvented: Frank Gehry has designed an inspiring new space for the Art Gallery of Ontario, and the Royal Ontario Museum is being reshaped by a network of crystal galleries envisioned by Daniel Libeskind. Neighborhoods that have languished for years are being reclaimed and revitalized by local artists and entrepreneurs. Take Parkdale, a once-gloomy area west of downtown that has been designated the “art and design district.” East of the downtown core is the new Distillery Historic District, which housed a nineteenth century industrial complex and is now home to several dance and theater troupes, art galleries, and bistros. Further uptown, the Carlu, a dramatic Art Modern concert hall designed by Jacques Carlu (creator of New York’s Rainbow Room), has finally re-opened after decades of being forgotten. This isn’t just a marketing exercise – the city’s pulse is quickening. Think you know Toronto? Think again.
Best Yoga Center
The Yoga Studio has been a Toronto institution since it opened in 1995. Its three practice rooms are simply designed and feature natural cork floors. The real appeal is in the quality of the instruction and in the inclusiveness of the studio. Drop-in classes are available in several styles – Ashtanga, Kripalu – and Karma Yoga, based on Hatha and Kripalu, is also offered on a pay-what-you-can basis (that’s the karma part). Another offering is Restorative Yoga, which is geared toward people with temporary or permanent disabilities. The Yoga Studio also hosts special classes and events, which run the gamut from rhythmic drumming to belly dancing. Contact (416) 923-9366 or visit www.yogastudio.net
Best Market
Toronto has several stores that sell organic produce or naturopathic medicines, but nothing rivals the scope of The Big Carrot, a worker-owned co-op that has been in business for more than twenty years. They sell non-GMO groceries, organic produce, organic and vegetarian cheeses, homeopathic supplements, Ayurvedic and Chinese medicines, health-oriented books and magazines, and natural bodycare products. The Big Carrot also has an organic juice bar, a vegetarian deli, a Thursday-evening lecture series, and a series of vegetarian cooking classes. Contact (416) 466-2129 or visit www.thebigcarrot.ca
Best Day Spa
Toronto has several day spas that vie for this title, but the Stillwater Spa tops the list. Located in the Park Hyatt hotel on the edge of chic Yorkville, the Stillwater has a perfectly serene setting with water everywhere, starting with the cascading waterfall along one wall in the reception area. Step further into the spa and you’ll cross translucent tiles with water coursing underneath. The treatments here are also water-intensive, from the Mandarin Honey Body Glow, which uses a Vichy shower, to the Water Shiatsu therapy, a massage in a sunken room that is filled with water. Another unique room is the couples’ sanctuary, which has a whirlpool tub that is set in front of a roaring fireplace. A half-hour soak is followed by a massage – and since the room is large enough to accommodate two massage tables, there’s no need to leave this oasis for two. Contact (416) 924-5471 or visit www.stillwaterspa.com
Best Spa for Indulging the Senses
The downtown Victoria Spa doesn’t simply soothe and relax you; it engages all of the senses. Treatments like the Rose Massage begin the moment you step into the room and inhale the flower’s scent. Every detail is carefully arranged: the velvety petals on the heated table, the aromatic massage oil, the soft music, and the citrus-infused water you drink after the massage. A pedicure starts with an herbal foot bath and massage in a solarium presided over by a statue of Buddha. During the treatment you’re served fresh mango or other natural delicacies. The result of such indulgences? Pure bliss that uplifts the body and the spirit. Contact (416) 413-9100 or visit www.victoriaspa.com
Best Walk
The University of Toronto-St. George is in the heart of downtown Toronto, yet visitors to the city rarely cross its spacious grounds. It’s a pity, because U of T has some of the most beautiful architecture in Toronto. Its college system was modeled on Oxford’s, and important buildings such as Victoria, Trinity, University, and Knox are structured around English-style open-air quads. The architecture ranges from the classical to the very modern. Some spaces incorporate both; the new Bahen Center for Information Technology is an airy glass building that is built around and behind the elegant-but-aging Koffler Center. The new complex boasts a futuristic courtyard with a series of ponds, all fuelled by rain-catching silos. This winter the University Art Centre is hosting a temporary exhibit of Picasso’s ceramic art. Contact (416) 978-5000 or visit www.utoronto.ca
Best Year-Round Garden
The Toronto Music Garden is more than just a green space and it’s an attraction at any time of year. Designed by cellist Yo-Yo Ma and landscape architect Julie Moir Messervy, the swirling pathways are intended to evoke Bach’s First Suite for Unaccompanied Cello. There are guided and independent audio tours of the garden, which both begin in the Prelude and lead in turn through Allemande, Courante, Sarabande, Menuett, and Gigue – just like the music itself. Contact (416) 973-4000 or visit www.toronto.ca/parks
Best Boutique
Slipping into Boudoir on Queen Street West is a heady experience. Step inside and you’ll immediately detect a delicate floral fragrance. The shop is a dramatic vision of a 1950s-era dressing room that a starlet or Vargas girl might have decorated. There are velvet-covered chaise lounges and sofas, antique vanity tables with gilded makeup mirrors, vintage dresses, and chic accessories (veiled hats, ladylike handbags, and glittering jewelry). The boutique also features aromatherapy products to make you feel as good as you look in this glamorous setting. Boudoir’s back room turns into a girls-only lounge after hours; it’s a popular spot to get a manicure or a pedicure. Contact (416) 535-6600
Best Alternative Bookstore
Megachains have forced many of Toronto’s independent booksellers out of business, but Pages Books & Magazines is a survivor. This Queen Street West shop actually benefited from the onslaught because Toronto’s literary community rallied around it. Pages is renowned for its books on the arts, cultural studies, and alternative lifestyles. There’s also a large section dedicated to books from small presses as well as a gigantic selection of magazines. Pages coordinates a free reading series, which they call “This Is Not a Reading Series.” The store’s owners have a strict policy on banned books: if a book has been banned elsewhere, they’ll definitely have it in stock. Contact (416) 598-1447 or visit www.pagesbooks.ca
Best Winter Outdoor Activity
Winter can be a long season in Toronto, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. When the temperature drops below freezing, the locals go ice-skating at Nathan Phillips Square. This is the best place to cut a figure 8, and since it has a kiosk that rents skates you can drop by on a whim. In balmier weather, the ice rink resumes its alternate identity as a reflecting pool. Whatever the time of year, visitors can also take in Toronto City Hall (widely regarded as a masterpiece of modern architecture) and a Henry Moore sculpture, The Archer. Contact (416) 338-0338 or visit www.city.toronto.on.ca
Pet-Friendly Hotel
If you want your four-legged companions to be as warmly welcomed at your hotel as you are, the Fairmont Royal York is the place to stay. The historic hotel has a VIP (Very Important Pets) program. The package includes a welcome kit for Fido, a pet-friendly room, and VIP treats delivered by room service during your stay. The Fairmont also makes a donation to the Toronto Humane Society as part of the deal. While your furry pals savor their plush surroundings, you can explore other parts of the hotel. The Royal York also has a state-of-the-art health club with an indoor pool, a photo gallery that records the hotel’s seventy-five-year history as well as the many famous faces who have slept here, and the Elizabeth Milan, a full-service spa, located on the hotel’s lower concourse. If you wish to stay in your room, you can call on the hotel’s Bath Sommelier to deliver an aromatherapy bath package that can relax or revive. Contact (800) 441-1414 or visit www.fairmont.com/royalyork
Vegetarian Restaurant
Stephen Gardner has long been a successful restaurateur and chef in Toronto, but Fressen is his first vegetarian venture. The restaurant was an immediate hit when it opened, and it continues to delight. The kitchen is committed to using organic ingredients whenever possible, and the menu is international in outlook. Various culinary traditions come together in dishes such as the miso-and-thyme-infused gluten roast paired with a green peppercorn, shiitake mushroom, and red wine reduction. One of Fressen’s signatures is a Purple Bun, which is served warm (the color comes from beet juice); it’s so popular that many non-vegetarians have been drawn here to try it. The wine list includes several organic choices, and the service is warm and efficient. Contact (416) 504-5127 or visit www.toronto.com
November/December 2004
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