The Homestead 1766
Hot Springs, Virginia
(866) 354-4653, www.thehomestead.com
Surrounded by the Allegheny Mountains in southwestern Virginia, this 3,000-acre resort was established in 1766, as every sign proudly reminds visitors. Twenty-three United States Presidents, a bevy of foreign princesses, and uncounted stars of the screen have come to seek peace and healing from The Homestead’s mineral spring waters.
History & Lore
In 1764, Colonel George Washington granted the land around the springs to a fellow military officer and friend, who built an 18-room hotel. Among the many visitors was Thomas Jefferson, who took the waters in hopes of curing his rheumatism. At the end of the nineteenth century, John Pierpont Morgan and a group of friends bought the property and began transforming it into the kind of place where the rich and the glamorous would feel at ease. The Homestead’s mineral-rich waters became known as “The Cure,” and were thought to remedy any number of health problems. Consequently, a variety of therapies were based on the healing waters properties. The resort’s stately exterior reflects its long history of accumulating wings, and the Homestead’s expansion from the original 18 rooms to 496 rooms indicates that there must be something beneficial about its waters.
Springs Style
The vibe here is swanky southern prep. Pastel walls are graced with 19th-century botanical prints and Audobon reproductions. Dragonflies embroidered on the upholstery capture that distinctively mischievous preppy wit. In the afternoons, well-heeled couples and families outfitted in polo shirts and Lily Pulitzer dresses fill the Great Hall, sipping cups of tea and nibbling on cucumber sandwiches.
Spa & Soak
The Homestead’s reverence for its own history extends to the spa, whose lobby boasts old photographs of the traditional “cure.” One photo from 1917 shows a man in full-body swimwear, a stream of water as thick as a garden hose blasting onto his back from the legendary Spout. Today, hardy visitors can still experience the thrill of the Spout, along with an old-school soak in a bath of Epsom salts. A signature treatment is the H2Ohh, a Swiss shower and scotch hose treatment combined with a stress-relieving massage. The spa also offers a full menu of wraps, massages, scrubs, and salon services.
While You’re There
A shuttle bus takes you five miles away to the oldest spa structure in America. The Jefferson Pools, named after its most famous bather, date from the mid 1750s. Approximately 120 feet in circumference, they hold 40,000 gallons of mineral spring water, which is maintained at a constant 98 degrees.
In addition to a famous golf course that boasts the oldest tee in continuous use in this country, the Homestead is heavy on outdoor activities. Shooting, fly-fishing, tennis, guided hikes through the Cascades Gorge, falconry, an equestrian center, a fitness center and classes, formal gardens, and skiing in the wintertime round out this family-oriented resort.
– Katherine Stewart
Dunton Hot Springs
Dolores, Colorado
(970) 882-4800 www.duntonhotsprings.com
Driving the last nine unpaved miles to Dunton Hot Springs you’ll begin to think you’re lost – civilization drifts further away, the paved roads turns to gravel, the rugged and snow-capped 14,000-foot mountains loom larger and much closer, and everything appears much more, well, rustic. By the time you drive over the last hill and glimpse the valley that Dunton resides in, you’ll feel as if you traveled back to a simpler moment in time, and in a way you have.
History & Lore
Dunton Hot Springs, nestled deep in the San Juan Mountain range, is really a restored ghost town that’s been turned into a luxury spa resort. The property, which is now the hideaway for those seeking both luxury and serenity within the resort’s artfully appointed cabins, was once a rather crude stomping ground for gold miners and is said to have served as hideout for Butch Cassidy, the legendary bank robber. (Dunton’s salvaged bar top still boasts his name, which Cassidy is rumored to have carved after he robbed the Telluride bank in 1889.) For years, the property was completely vacant aside from the hippies and bikers that would come and stay in the dilapidated cabins. In the early nineties, however, Christoph Henkel and his friend, Bernt Kuhlman purchased the property with the idea of establishing a private getaway of their own. Their vision quickly expanded and in 2003 they opened the resort town, which is nestled on nearly 700 acres, to guests around the world.
Springs Style
The eleven cabins accommodate thirty-four guests at a time, and the Tee Pee is only available during the summer months. Each of the cabins, which appear deceptively rustic on the outside, features such amenities as radiant heat floors, museum-quality artwork, and modern slate bathrooms. But, despite these modern upgrades, the property has maintained an authentic feel without going overboard on the Western lore. The spa was once an old stagecoach station in Steamboat Springs; while the Well House plays homage to the area’s roots and features the only hot spring-fed tub within guest quarters. At the center of it all, you’ll find the saloon and restaurant where communal meals are served three times a day featuring sustainable and mostly local game, produce, and fish from Executive Chef Mario Toby.
Spa & Soak
Dunton Hot Springs offers several soaking options, none of which even have the slightest scent of sulfur. The first spring is found within the bathhouse and is the property’s largest pool. Spend an hour alternating between the warm waters of the hot springs and the cool plunge, followed by a steam in their steam shower. Just outside of the bathhouse, with stellar evening views of the snow-capped San Juans is the smaller rock-lined hot spring. When you’re ready for a spa treatment, head to the Pony Express (the spa and yoga studio) for the Rocky Mountain High Detoxification. The ninety-minute treatment, which includes a scrub, marine mud wrap, and aromatherapy massage, was one of the best treatments I’ve ever experienced.
While You’re There
Hiking, horseback riding, and fly fishing are all popular options during the summer months, while winter activities include heli-skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, or visiting the nearby town of Telluride. But no matter what activity you choose, the best thing Dunton has to offer is solitude. Cell phones have no reception, there are no gimmicky stores or shops, and only one of the cabins even has a television. And for most of us, a little bit of quiet and some time spent in nature, are two things we really need. Although it is quite a journey to get to Dunton, you’ll soon realize that in arriving your experience has only just begun.
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