By Melissa B. Williams
A trip to Tasmania restores, revitalizes, and reminds us to breathe “deeply.
Tasmania’s recent contribution to the spa scene as well as the importance they place on locally grown, organic food and wines intrigued me and brought my husband and I, after twenty hours of traveling, to its doorstep. Although the journey is long, it is well worth the time; we only were able to spend four days on this enchanted archipelago, but left feeling rejuvenated and revitalized.
Our first stop took us on a windy drive to Lemonthyme Lodge, located in the temperate rainforest just thirty minutes from Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park. Upon arrival, we were immediately welcomed by both the fragrant, woodsy-scent as well as the wallabies criss-crossing the dirt path to the main lodge. The lodge, which was originally built out of Ponderosa pine logs in 1980, has recently had a renovation, with the addition of luxury cabins. These cabins, although rustic on the exterior, are furnished with modern amenities, Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces, and balconies that open to the forest beyond. The restaurant features local Tasmanian produce, game, and fish as well as an extensive Tassie-oriented wine menu. While we were only able to make this part of our journey a one-night stopover, we did have the pleasure of hiking out to Bridal Veil and Champagne Falls; the trailhead “just minutes from the cabins “takes hikers through the lush temperate rainforest that surrounds the property. Despite the proximity of the trailhead to the lodge, we only encountered one other couple on the entire hike “something nearly unheard of in U.S. national parks.
After our invigorating hike in Tassie’s clean mountain air, we got on the road to our second Tasmanian destination, Cradle Mountain Lodge.
Cradle Mountain Lodge
The World Heritage listed Cradle Mountain/Lake St. Clair National Park is an adventurer’s playground, full of clear, glass-like glacial lakes, rugged peaks, icy streams, and miles of navigable trails. The lodge, nestled on the border of the park, blends in with its surroundings, yet despite its rustic dƒ©cor is completely luxurious. Our Spa Suite was located just a ten minute walk from the main cabin, but felt far enough away to still hear the hum of the forest from our balcony. Our suite, replete with a Jacuzzi tub and a king-sized bed piled high with feather pillows and a goose-down duvet (perfect for the cool evenings) also featured a tranquil balcony for relaxing and listening to the sounds of the forest.
The property also offers several other types of accommodations to suit a diverse clientele. The most luxurious are the King Billy Suites, their newest addition to the lodge. These suites offer separate sleeping and living areas, a two-person spa, and an outdoor balcony featuring a private hot tub. Cozier and more affordable accommodations in-clude their Pencil Pine Cabins, available‚ in‚ both‚ regular‚ and family-size, which are in closer proximity to the main lodge.
From the lodge you can also hitch a ride to Dove Lake for a peaceful canoe ride on perhaps the most serene lake I’ve ever seen. Hiking options abound from the shorter Dove Lake circuit to longer, and much more strenuous adventures.
My husband, Steven, and I opted for the shorter circuit in hopes of capturing the stillness of the lake on film (and to enjoy the secluded setting). Aside from a few other walkers that we encountered, it was completely quiet. Through lush growth and drier patches, we trekked and took pictures, and by the time we were finished, we were ready to return to the lodge for some much-needed lunch and a spa visit.
The Tavern Bar & Bistro at the lodge is open for both lunch and dinner and features local favorites like potato wedges with chili, pizzas, and fish and chips. When the weather is cool it offers a perfect respite for cabin fever with pool tables, darts, and wine and beer specials.
While the lodge’s tavern offers a quick taste, true Tasmanian cuisine is highlighted at Highland Restaurant, Cradle Mountain’s main dining venue, which features such delicious options as the roulade of poached chicken with sun-dried tomato stuffing and the tempting trio of Tasmanian cheeses with poached fruit, walnut bread, and red pepper chutney for dessert. Be sure to visit Highland’s walk-in wine cellar, where you’re able to hand-select a local Tasmanian wine to compliment your meal.
Tasmania is home to an abundance of wildlife, the most ubiquitous the miniature, kangaroo-like, wallaby. This small creature is found everywhere, from the paths leading you to your private cabin to the area surrounding the restaurant, as well as criss-crossing the roads! For optimal creature viewing, the lodge offers night tours, where you’re likely to see a wallaby, a pademelon, and a wombat, and if you’re lucky, a Tasmanian Devil.
Although I was interested in the canoe trips and night-time wildlife tours, I was originally drawn to Tasmania, and Cradle Mountain Lodge in particular, to visit the Waldheim Alpine Spa and see first-hand how a spa can truly connect with the land.
The Waldheim Alpine Spa features such indigenous ingredients as organic herbs, honey, and seaweed as well as the 100% natural Australian skincare line, Sodashi. The spa takes pride in its location, which is evident from the minimalist dƒ©cor (featuring native woods, slate, and stone), unobtrusive furnishings, and brilliant views of the spa’s rugged surroundings. The treatments primarily focus on locally inspired therapies, highlighting both the therapeutic powers of local fruits and herbs as well as Aboriginal healing techniques.
My treatment, Dove Lake Dreaming, an item on their A Touch of Tasmania menu, began with the application of a warm Tasmanian mud, designed to purify the body (and in my experience, the mind). Afterward, I relaxed in a private bathtub, with remarkable views of the Pencil Pine River beyond. While the milk bath infused my dry skin, the relaxing setting seemed to infuse my soul with a sense of peace and contentment. I’m not sure if this is what the architects had in mind when they designed this nature-focused spa, but the spa’s setting, with or without a treatment, offers an amazing way to regain balance.
After my soak, the therapists indulged me in a deluxe facial and scalp massage, followed by the Overland Foot Therapy, a sixty-minute treatment (designed for tired legs and feet) that features local Lemon Myrtle and Tasmanian Pepper Berry “two native plants with powerful therapeutic benefits.
The spa also features the Sanctuary, a cozy room for men and women to relax before or after their treatments. The sanctuary, which offers perhaps the best views of the Pencil Pine River, features a steam room, sauna, hot tub, cool plunge pool, and relaxation area.
With heavy hearts, my husband and I left our quiet sanctuary in the woods to return to the airport for our last Tassie adventure, Flinders Island, just a thirty-five minute jaunt to the northeast.
Flinders Island is part of the Furneqaux group of islands, which were once the land bridge that connected Tasmania to mainland Australia. Despite their close proximity to the mainland of Tasmania, the Furneqaux islands remain enchantingly isolated. Flinders Island itself, with a population of 900, features a dramatic landscape from the towering Mt. Strzelecki to the clear waters of the Bass Strait. The clean air and water is not only inspiring, it serves as the world standard for clean air and water. (Yes, breathe deeply!)
We were destined for Healing Dreams Retreat, a relative newcomer to Flinders, founded by David and Lila Tresemer, a Boulder, Colorado, couple who fell in love with the area in 1997 and decided to create a retreat that focused on healing.
The minimalist property, which sits beneath Mt. Strzelecki and is surrounded by national park on three sides, takes advantage of its extraordinary location. Nestled between the mountain and the coast, Healing Dreams offers such diverse activities as hiking (or trekking if you tackle Mt. Strzelecki), biking, and swimming in the cool waters. The glorified B&B-like resort can accommodate up to sixteen guests at a time and is open for private groups wishing to relax in a truly inspiring environment. The resort offers breath-taking views of the distant beaches, clear waters, and dramatic granite boulders. Healing Dreams also offers yoga, tai chi, and exercise classes in their yurt and gym, and guests can schedule Swedish massage either in-room or in the spa area. (A post-dinner massage is the ultimate indulgence.) Meals are communal and focus on organic wines and cuisine, with most of the produce coming from their own gardens. For breakfast, you’ll enjoy fresh bread (ask for the recipe!), organic fruit and yogurt, and local free-range eggs; dinner options include the delicious Flinders Island Flathead Fish in a bed of olives, zucchini, and spinach. Days are spent exploring the area by bike or foot, while evenings are best enjoyed from your private balcony or from the comforts of the hot tub. Healing Dreams offers a variety of retreats as well as custom vacations, catering to all of your needs. Their retreats include three meals daily (including any picnic lunches, and afternoon tea and cookies), accommodations, and the use of their mountain bikes and gym facility.
While it may seem like quite a jaunt to trek all the way to Tasmania and then board a plane for an island so quiet it seems deserted, Healing Dreams Retreat, offers everything most of us need (and none of the noise we don’t). The striking environment, the friendly staff, the delicious cuisine, and the ability to Ëœpause’ and enjoy the moment, will rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul “and will leave you dreaming of a future visit.
Lemonthyme Lodge
www.lemonthyme.com.au
03 6492 1112
Cradle Mountain Lodge
www.cradlemountainlodge.au
03 6492 1303
Healing Dreams Retreat
www.healingdreams.com.au
1800 99 44 77
May/June 2006
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