by Kris Wetherbee
When life gets a bit too hectic, I usually get a massage. But this time I wanted to ease life’s stresses in a different setting. So I headed out on a winter tour of the Oregon Coast for three days of fun and relaxation.
Standing at the edge of the Pacific Ocean, I close my eyes and burrow my feet deep into the wet, silky sand. In this stillness my other senses tune in to the sounds of the thundering waves, the smell of ionic breezes, and the feel of the fine mist of salted spray playing across my cheeks. Exposed to the elements, my mind gets lost in the intensity of the moment until my body becomes aware of just how incredibly cold the water feels this time of year. It’s the kind of chill that reminds me of the fluctuating nuances of nature.
Winter weather along Oregon’s rugged coastline boasts an energizing mix of pleasant days and sensual sunshine to stormy skies that summon dramatic shows of wind-whipped waves during storm-watching season. Nature’s force is full on during one of these winter storms, with powerful winds driving horizontal rain and massive waves that come thrashing against the shoreline.
From November to March, storm watching season can take you by surprise. It’s a sight best watched from high on a cliff or from the protected cover of an ocean-view room. I began my coastal tour at Overleaf Lodge in Yachats, a spectacular location for storm watching, with wide picture windows and oceanfront exposure that provides a close-up view of nature’s powerful show. It’s also a seaside setting known for super-sized wave action and rocky basalt structures as far as the eye can see.
After settling into my room, I head to the Overleaf Spa for a Sea Stone Massage. Sculpted smooth by the churning force of the ocean waves, the heated stones instantly melt away muscle tension as my therapist skillfully maneuvers them in a penetrating neck-to-feet massage. She works each section of my body with hot stones in hands, placing newly heated stones along key points as she goes. The warmth melts the tension within my body as thoughts of a sun-kissed beach and warm ocean breezes swim through my mind.
As evening approaches, I watch the sun from the balcony of my comfortably spacious room, as it descends in a blazing ball of orange-red, casting its warm glow of rosy orange, burnt sienna, and golden apricot across the seascape. As the ocean serenades me with hypnotic waves, I effortlessly drift off to sleep.
With the first morning light, I head out along the historic 804 trail just outside my room. The trail to the south leads several miles to the town of Yachats, following nearly the same path the Indians and early pioneers traveled. To the north is a meandering half-mile trail that eventually unveils a six-mile expanse of sandy beach. The half-mile path sounds just about right, so I head north as the early morning ocean breeze sweeps across my face. The scene changes around each bend: a jagged shoreline punctuated by stretches of rocky outcropping, slabs of glassy black basalt, canopies of windswept pines, and sandy coves with fissures spewing mountains of sea foam.
After breakfast I head south a few miles along coastal Highway 101, which leads to Cape Perpetua, the tallest point on the Oregon Coast. Accessible by trail or car, the 1930’s stone lookout towers more than 800 feet above the shoreline, with an unsurpassed wide angle view showcasing 75 miles of coastline and 20 miles across the sea on a clear day. The view is a perfect melding of cobalt blue waters and white-capped turquoise waves nestled against a multi-hued rainforest of emerald green. The West Shelter provides prime viewing for watching whale spouts. Here, gray whales can be seen year-round, though their southbound winter migration from Alaskan waters is at its height from mid-December to mid-January.
I drive a little further south to check out the allegedly haunted Heceta Head Lighthouse, said to be the most photographed lighthouse in the United States. And I can see why. Built in 1894, the working lighthouse is perched high on a sea cliff, a full 205 feet above the ocean. Tucked away in a remote setting, the red-capped, white conical tower is surrounded by near vertical black rock cliffs, dense evergreen forests, and a spectrum of dazzling blues from the ocean below.
One of the best places to photograph the lighthouse is from the belly of the Sea Lion Caves located a few miles south. The cave is only accessible by an elevator that descends over 200 feet into the caverns. My heart skips a beat in anticipation, knowing that the massive Stellar sea lions make their home in the world’s largest sea cave during fall and winter. (An adult sea lion bull can weigh up to a ton.)
Once in the cave’s depths, I come into view of sea lions by the hundreds, with several only a few feet away. The protective screen separating the caves from the viewing area becomes unnoticeable as the creatures sound out a grandiose symphony in the eeriest of amphitheaters. Their rising voices create a spectacular resonance that can be felt to the very core of my being.
South of Florence, the meandering coastline of dense conifer forests breaks way to reveal a more dominant landscape of Sahara-like dunes and vast sandy beaches. As the afternoon unfolds, so does the stunning interplay of wild and serene. The sand dunes – some towering nearly 500 feet high – are interwoven between a densely forested seascape and dozens of deep azure blue lakes.
Just inland from Gold Beach I approach my final destination – Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge. This four-star hidden gem in the woods is a delightful retreat of simple elegance overlooking a serene stretch of Oregon’s mighty Rogue River. It’s a place I’ve been to before and always look forward to coming back to again.
The scenery is magical at any time of year. The winter scene is very restful and tranquil. Spring and summer at the Lodge is in full bloom, with outdoor adventures and beautiful gardens gracing the grounds. The Lodge also has a private dock that serves as a pickup point for white water thrills.
But this particular stay was less about outdoor adventures and more about new insights and simple pleasures, so I booked a massage at the Lodge’s new Tututni Waters Cabana. The private open-air hideaway looks out on an incredible front row river view – sights that are best enjoyed pre-massage, before drifting off into dreamland. The cabana also overlooks a flowering perennial and herb garden that lingers late in the year. A potted star jasmine sits off to the side, scenting the air with its sweet perfume.
As I lay on the table awaiting my therapist’s return, the aroma of scented jasmine seems much more intense. My mind is also more finely tuned to sounds, like the wind blowing across the river surface and the gently lapping waves that ripple along on the riverbank. Perhaps it’s the lack of visual engagement that allows my other senses to heighten. Or maybe it’s simply that I find the ambience to be extremely relaxing. As I turn on my back, I feel a gentle breeze across my face that carries the sound of an osprey overhead.
The start of this spa experience took me by surprise, as did the entire journey. As I experienced the Oregon coast in winter, I discovered that being exposed to what life brings is something to embrace, not retreat from. My feet left a now faded imprint in the sand at the start of the journey. But in the end this journey has left me with a deepening appreciation for the wonders of nature on the Oregon coast.
Information
Overleaf Lodge
Yachats, OR
(800) 338-0507
www.overleaflodge.com
Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge
Gold Beach, OR
(800) 864-6357
Tu Tu Tun Lodge
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